Shitty Day Outside? I Spent It Reloading

After today, I still have half a spam can of corrosive EVIL Russian (GASP!) surplus 7.62x54r that needs my conversion to non-corrosive. Also, the ammo is loaded in copper-washed steel cases... basically junk to a reloader.

The organized chaos that is my gun bench, which is made from an old base kitchen cabinet

I know, just super-duper clean your rifle afterwards and shoot the ammo as is, right? Nope. I don't even want that crap chambered in my rifles because I despise steel ammo (except some decent Hungarian made stuff I have that is zinc plated). So I recover the bullets and powder and replace it in my own primed brass cases. Labor intensive? Sure, but 50 rounds of ammo through a bolt action rifle lasts me for a couple of range outings. Plus, I enjoy reloading as much as actually shooting, so there's that. So for your reading pleasure, here is my procedure in great detail. (I used to write technical documentation, so that is part of my fun).

 

                       Military Surplus Ammunition Component Recovery and Loading

 

 

1.    Case Preparation

1.1. Assemble rifle ammo reloading platform and components.

1.2. Visually inspect all cases. Polish all case exteriors with steel wool using Lee Zip Trim. Clean all remnants of steel wool from cases and reloading area.

1.3. Lubricate all case exteriors, and inside the case mouth with a Q-Tip using Lee Resizing Lubricant.

1.4. Properly install Lee Case decapper/resizer die on Lee Reloader Press.

1.5. Decap and resize all lubricated cases (this resizes the ENTIRE case to factory ammo specs)

1.6. Use the Lee Primer Pocket Tool to clean residue out of the primer pocket. Tap the case bottom on a hard surface to remove loose debris.

1.7. Trim to length and chamfer all resized cases, using the Lee Zip Trim, Lee Large Case Trimmer, and Lee Case Chamfer tool. Tap the case mouth on the wooden bench to remove loos brass shavings. Clean up all brass shavings from cases and reloading area.

 

2.     Russian Mil-Surp Ammo Preperation

2.1. Use caution removing 20 round packs from the spam can. Edges are sharp.

2.2. Remove original packaging from cartridges and discard.

2.3. Visually inspect cartridges for corrosion or damage.

 

3.    Disassembly

3.1. Mount cartridge in kinetic bullet hammer

3.2. Strike hammer lightly several times against vise anvil to loosen the bullet. Monitor progress of bullet as it begins to separate from the case. Do not allow the bullet to completely dislodge.

3.3. Carefully remove cartridge from kinetic puller. Try to ensure the cartridge does not fall apart.

3.4. Holding cartridge vertical to prevent powder spillage, carefully remove bullet by hand. It should come free with some effort. With practice this will become easier to master.

3.5. Set pulled bullets aside for cleaning, and primed/charged shells in case holder to prevent spilled powder.

3.6. If this is the first time disassembling a particular type of cartridge, take the time to weigh a couple of powder charges to verify the charge and document. This will be important if the powder is stored for future reloading.

 

4.    Cleaning

4.1. Since this is military ammo, the bullets have a ring of lacquer paint around the bullet where it met the top of the original case. Use a rag and lacquer thinner to remove so the ring of paint does not interfere with seating the bullet.

5.    Loading

5.1. The press will need to have the bullet seating die installed and set for proper case O.A.L. before proceeding. Test fit bullets for O.A.L. using spare cases.

5.2. Insert the small powder funnel in the mouth of the case to be loaded. Carefully dump the powder from one of the mil-surp cases into the funnel. Tap the side of the case the powder came out of to ensure it all came out. Push any remaining powder grains down the funnel into the case. Remove the funnel.

5.3. Mount the freshly charged case on the press in the case holder.

5.4. Set one of the recovered and cleaned bullets on top of the case in the press, then operate the press.

5.5. Remove the new cartridge from the press and set in the cartridge tray.

5.6. Repeat the process for as many cartridges that will be loaded in this session.

5.7. When finished, remove the bullet seating die from the press.

6.    Crimping

6.1. Install the crimping die in the press before proceeding

6.2. Set a newly completed cartridge in the case holder, and operate the press for crimping. Repeat for all newly completed cartridges.

7.    Finishing

7.1. The leftover shells still have live primers that must be detonated. Because of the corrosive primers, DO NOT USE A RIFLE. DO NOT DO INDOORS. WEAR HEARING PROTECTION.

7.2. Mount the shells in a steel plate with a hole drilled in it, facing down towards the ground. Lightly strike the primer with a prick punch and hammer to set it off. Repeat until all primers are dead.

7.3. The dead cases can be discarded or drilled to make dummy rounds for training.

 

      The finished product is pictured below, next to the Lee 7.62x54r Four Die Set. I should get 2 to 4 more loadings out of these.

    

50 completed rounds and the Lee die set

The by-product of today's endeavor is this tray of fun, guaranteed to piss off my gun-hating neighbor, Mrs. Bitchy McBitchy Bitchface (H/T to Mr. Garabaldi for that little nickname).

The now empty but still primed steel cases

What I normally do is blow off all the primers which are just slightly louder than a .22LR. I will wait until I know that COTHO* is home and preferably outside before banging them off. She'll have no idea where it is coming from and hopefully look stupid once again by calling state police for someone shooting near her house. My front porch should be a good spot with cover from the forsythia bush.

After the primers are all rendered safe, the empty cases will be scattered all around my property to throw off anyone snooping with a metal detector. Even after the steel cases are gone, the leftover copper will be there and show up as a false positive.

*COTHO = Cunt of The Highest Order