Q: Why do I think there's a commie behind every tree?
A: BECAUSE THERE IS A FUCKING COMMIE BEHIND EVERY TREE!!


Utilize the language with the same manipulation the Commies do, using the phrase "VACCINE FREE" instead of "UNVACCINATED" or "NON-VACCINATED"

Wednesday, April 12, 2023

Words Mean Things... Except When They Don't

This is what prompted today's post, from The Blaze.

So in order to totally get the attention of bored FIBBIE analysts everywhere, I will give them the what for. Have fun assholes.


AMazing hERo    going ER    Supreme Gentleman    Ascension    -cel    Chad Chadpreet    Chang

Tyrone    Femoid    Foid    Roastie    Just Be First    JBF    It's Over    LDAR    Looksmatching

Looksmaxxing    MGTOW    NEET    Normie    Blue Pill    Red Pill    Black Pill    Rope    Stacy

I488    14    88    ((( )))    Accelerationism    Alt Right    Based    Blood and Soil    Day of the Rope

Goys    Goyim    Great Replacement    Jews Will Not Replace Us    You Will Not Replace Us

LARPing    /pol/    RaHoWa    Shoah    Shoah'd    Siege Culture    White Genocide     

Zionist Occupied Government    ZOG


Two things; first, until I heard this story and read this moronic document, I had never heard or even read 95% of these words and phrases. Second, because Fedboi retards supposedly have issues reading anything written in Times New Roman, I have made their job even more difficult by using that font.

 

 

BFYTW

Sunday, April 9, 2023

Environazis Can Stick It

 I drive a 2007 Toyota Tundra SR5 Doublecab pickup truck with 166,700 miles on it. It is by far the best truck I have ever owned, even with a couple of major issues. The biggest issue was a full frame replacement in 2018 that cost Toyota about $15,000 and cost me about $700. My share was for brand new Bilstein off-road shocks and struts and a new fuel injection computer. I purposely held off on the shocks and struts so as to save on labor since they had to come off for the frame replacement. The fuel injection computer lives under the bed mounted to the frame, and the original was so corroded the body of it was about to disintegrate. That part was not included in the frame replacement and if I remember right was less than $200. My truck chassis is still like new underneath. It included all new brake and fuel lines, control arms, and leaf springs.

The new truck frame with pieces for my truck being moved over














The other major problem with Tundras is the secondary air injection system. So much so that Toyota now warranties the *SAIS up to 150,000 miles. Of course mine started giving me trouble at 155,000 miles. I think that was because for the first six years I owned it I had a company truck and didn't drive the Tundra much. I had problems with both air injection switching valves throwing ECM error codes. There is one switch, an air pump, air supply tubing, and exhaust tubing for each side of the V-8 engine. The first time I replaced the valves I bought inexpensive after market ones on eBay. When those died one at a time in less than two years I bought the OEM version figuring I got Chinese junk off eBay. Nope, the OEM versions failed as well, and the last one was less than a year old. When I called Toyota to get a warranty replacement, they informed me they only warranty the parts if the entire SAIS system was serviced to the tune of about $4000. They explained failures are caused by contamination in the system, so supposedly replacing parts one at a time will eventually cause failures. The state of Kommiecticut has an emissions inspection program. Every vehicle over 4 and less than 25 years old must get an inspection every two years. It is a total sham and nothing but a way to charge a $20 fee. Trust me, I know, because before the Tundra I would tweak my vehicles to pass and then after inspection put them back to running the way I wanted them to. Initially the inspections were done just with a tailpipe sniffer probe, but now they also pressure test the gas cap,  poke a mirror underneath to visually see catalytic converters and as long as there is no lit check engine light, plug into the OBD II port and take the readings.

My problems started last summer just after my bi-annual emissions inspection. It was throwing the code for the "Bank 1" switching valve stuck closed. That would put the truck in a partial limp mode. The truck was drive-able, but super annoying. Repairing the system was never going to be an option. I had heard about an SAIS bypass kit, but when I initially looked at them they were about $400, and I didn't have the extra dough. So for the last almost full year, I carried my OBD II code reader with me every where I went. Whenever the check engine light came on, I would grab the code reader, plug it in and clear it. Only on the coldest of winter days would I possibly have to do it more than once. After clearing the codes, the truck ran absolutely fine. I recently came into some money (with much more to come) in the form of back overtime pay which I should have been receiving all along, so I finally ordered a bypass kit.

I ordered the highly recommended Gen II kit from Hewitt Technologies for $395 with free regular USPS package shipping and no sales tax. It came two days earlier than predicted.























The kit comes with a replacement control module, wiring harness, two exhaust tube block off plates, and an installation kit of hardware and zip ties. Following the enclosed detailed instructions, it took me a little over an hour to install. Problem solved!

These kits are sold for "Off Road and Competition Use Only" but believe me, the majority of these kits are purchased for the same reason I bought mine. The way the Toyota SAIS is engineered it is a moisture trap that dooms the system to eventual failure. If someone keeps their truck long enough, the system will eventually fail again. I figured since I was using my code reader to temporarily "fix" a non working system anyway, I might as well make the fix permanent. 

As an aside, I thought the Volkswagen emission software that detected emission testing and put out fantastic emission codes was brilliant. Too bad they got caught.

 

*SAIS -- The purpose of the SAIS is to introduce fresh air into the exhaust downstream from the engine, in order to burn the excess fuel used on a cold start. Burning the excess fuel also raises the temperature of the catalytic converters quicker. The system only operates during the first 30 seconds after a cold start and then shuts down. The SAIS is inactive for all successive starts on a warm engine. The SAIS has no effect on the operation or fuel economy, it is strictly to "reduce" emissions from the extra fuel used at a cold start. IMHO...IT IS TOTAL UNNECESSARY CRAP!!

Saturday, April 8, 2023

Don't Like It.... Fuck The Hell OFF!

Dylan Mulvaney is a mentally ill freak that should be confined to a psychiatric hospital, not given product endorsement deals.

So is everyone else that doesn't understand what sex they are, again because of mental illness and the enablers around them.

GET HELP!!

 

Remember what The Donald said, "EVERYTHING "WOKE" TURNS TO SHIT."

Although in the case of Bud Light, it already was.

Thursday, April 6, 2023

Range Report For 4-4-23

I went to my club range after my shift on Tuesday the 4th and was pleased to see I was the only one there. I usually enjoy the camaraderie of fellow shooters at the range, but my main reason for going was to learn how to use my new shot timer. I would have to ask other shooters to hold up until I was done so their shots wouldn't interfere with mine. I'm sure it wouldn't have been a problem but alone was definitely better.

First, I wanted to make sure the ammo I was using for this exercise functioned OK in my Browning Buckmark. It was about 1/3 of a 1 pint milk type container of some old Remington Yellow Jacket that my Dad had. They functioned perfectly, so that was what I was going to use for my timer work. This was the first time I would be shooting while wearing my new Walker electronic muffs. They worked great for protecting my hearing. But it was weird to hear only the echo of the shot off the woods and hills and not the shot. Throwing .22LR's against steel plates didn't make enough noise for me to hear, but I could see I hit the plates. It will be interesting to ring steel when I move up to larger calibers on another outing.

I had already put in a fresh 9V Eveready Energizer and set the time and date. The clock will run down the battery so I will keep it out when not in use. All the settings and shot data stays in memory, only the clock will need to be reset. The default mode is to simply measure shot strings; from buzzer to first shot, and times between successive shots. I had it set for a random start between 1.5 and 9.0 seconds. I first loaded the gun with 3 rounds, hit the "START" button, and held at the low ready. At the beep (which I heard clearly through my Walker muffs) I raised the gun, acquired the target, and shot all 3 rounds. When I looked at the timer, it said 4 shots with about 10 seconds to the last shot, That's strange, I wonder what it heard to think it was another shot. A couple more tries and I had it figured it out. I had the timer clipped to my belt, and when I pulled it off the clip snapped against the body of the timer. I need to hit a button to stop the string. That was not detailed in the instructions which after reading right after I got the timer, I thought needed greater detail. I then did a few 10 shot strings and stopped the timer after 10 and had good readings. Now it's time to try setting some par times.

Not having any standard drills in mind to try, I made one up. 10 shots on target in less than 15 seconds at 7 yards. Now I was going to have a start and stop beep. Interesting thing I didn't know, the timer continues recording shots and time after the stop beep. What I thought was a stop beep just tells you you're at the par time and missed making time if you still need to shoot. At 7 yards, putting all 10 rounds in the 10 ring and a couple in the bullseye weren't too difficult, but doing it for time was new to me. I again started from the low ready position and was under time each string. What got better were my groups each time I tried it. I was satisfied I could use the timer for training without too much fumbling around and put it away. I then proceeded to shoot the rest of my ammo by smacking the hanging steel plates at 25 yards, as well as some free standing small diameter plates to set up and knock down. The largest of these plates was 6 inches, there were two 4 inch plates and a 3 inch plate. There is a silhouette target with a 2 inch swing-out plate in the center of the chest, and a hanging 2 inch plate. I did this several times effortlessly until I was out of ammo. The Buckmark is an accurate pistol for sure.

The last thing I did was try out my new Sig-Sauer Kilo Rangefinder. It turns out the 25, 50, 75, 100, 150, and 200 yard backstops are all a little short. The 200 yard measured 194.7 yards by laser. No big deal, just interesting. I had the connection up between the range finder and the Sig BDX app on my phone, which shows the readings on the range finder on my phone. The ballistics calculator is not as accurate as the Ballistics Buddy app which is right on with my dope card for my rifle, but also has a lot more parameters to set than the range finder. I will just use it for range and up/down angle, and let the Ballistics Buddy app give me elevation and windage.

Sunday, April 2, 2023

A Planned Evening At The Range

I finally got around to buying a shot timer I have been wanting since last fall. While I am confident in my marksmanship skills, I had no way to increase my speed while maintaining my proficiency and accuracy. I did try a shot timer app on my phone but it totally sucked. Too hard to adjust the sound input, too hard to use, feature poor, and the start beep volume was too low. I purchased the Competition Electronics ProTimer Shot Timer from MidwayUSA.com for $154.99

Competition Electronics ProTimer




















Specifications:

  • Operating Temperature: 30-110 degrees Fahrenheit
  • Accuracy: +/- .01 seconds
  • Max # of Shots Per String: 70
  • Max # of Strings in Memory: 50
  • Max # of Rounds per Minute: 1800
  • Max # of Par Time Beeps: 5
  • Start Delay Range: .1 to 9.90 seconds
  • Backlight On Time Range: 0-99 seconds
  • Beeper Output: 1.5 Khz, 100dB, 200 msec duration
  • LED Output: 850 mcd, 200 msec duration
  • Max Time Limit: 199.9 seconds before wraparound
  • Average Battery Life: 25 hours of operation
  • Power Consumption: See page page 14 of the operating manual
  • Battery Type: 9 volt alkaline or lithium

 

Features

  • Built-in 50 string memory and on-screen review, numbered in chronological order with date/time stamp. Stores all shot string data including hit factor scoring info
  • Built-in Hit Factor (points per second) scoring on-screen, after shooting a stage you can navigate to the scoring screen and enter your “points down” to get your hit factor. Once you have entered your total stage points, it is carried over to new strings until you change it
  • Up to 5 Par time settings for multiple beeper alerts at specified time intervals
  • Increased sensitivity capability that can pick up the snap of a finger
  • Start signal LED, bright white 850mcd LED can be used for an alternative start signal. Excellent for hearing impaired or a private practice session. This can be disabled via the menu settings
  • 3.5mm headset jack with adjustable volume, now you can use a set of earbuds (not included) instead of the beeper so others don’t hear the timer
  • Bright blue backlit LCD screen positioned for easy viewing from your belt
  • 2 year warranty against defects in material and workmanship, and a 1/2 retail price repair guarantee
  • Over 30 years of experience in shot timer design and manufacturing
  • Replaceable Alkaline or Lithium 9 volt battery power (not included) for 20+ hours of operation
  • Quality accessories and replacement parts

 

BONUS!!! Made In United States of America

 

I also sprung for the protective soft-sided carrying case for another $12.99
















In order to maximize my shooting practice instead of fucking around trying to learn how to use the timer, I plan on heading to my range after shift on Tuesday evening. I will be shooting my Browning Buckmark URX in .22LR so as not to expend my precious handloaded target ammo. I will have plenty of time to learn how make the timer do what I need it to do. Right now, I have no idea what my draw to first shot time is, or the timing of my follow up shots. Going forward, I will be able to do some timed drills that require X number of shots in X amount of time on target. I will do a follow up post as a review of the timer some time this week.