For some stoopid reason Goolag isn't playing nice and won't let me post a reply here at Bayou Resistance Man, so I will just make it a blog post of my own. Watch the whole video Peter has embedded, it's only 21 minutes long, but it is kinda scary. This caught my eye so I screenshot it:

It refers to why people are buying 100,000 mile reliable used cars and trucks instead of new technology loaded vehicles. I noticed a phenomenon years ago, when car ads on TV were all about the pretty colors, the interiors, sound system, on-board navigation, pre-crash braking, lane departure, etc. but NOTHING about performance, handling, cargo capabilities, or even fuel efficiency. In my opinion it was all about the toys. I remember one car ad for a Google enabled car where the occupants said "feed the dog" and a wi-fi enabled food dispenser at home fed the dog. Who the actual fuck needs that? I mean really! And when that system fails your car is pretty much dead, because they control more than just the entertainment. I for one, being an old school car guy, was not and is not interested in this nonsense. Below is my comment that failed to publish:
This goes back farther than you think. I have a 2007 Toyota Tundra with 186,496 miles on it that I do most of the work on myself, that is until recently. My ABS went out, killing ABS, 4WD, TSC, and VSC. The only way for me to fix it is to start replacing ALL the components one at a time until the lights go out. One component, the main ABS pump module contains all the sensors as well as the pump and costs a few grand by itself. This is because Toyota has a proprietary software called "Tech Stream" that connects with a proprietary OBDII cable which they WILL NOT make available to the public, and is a must to properly diagnose the ABS. This software is not only for diagnosis, but also turns features on an off. So, a week and a half ago, I paid Lynch Toyota of Manchester $199.88 (including tax and an $8.95 environmental surcharge) to diagnose my ABS system. They reported a bad left front wheel sensor and/or wiring harness. The wheel sensor is $315 and the harness is $120 and the whole job to replace is $784. Oh yeah, they do not roll the diagnostic charge into the repair like a lot of shops used to. It is always a standalone charge. FUCKERS! At home I put a V.O.M. on the circuit myself and it is indeed open, but I can't believe it is both the sensor AND the little wiring harness. Because I DIY replaced that wheel bearing over 8 months ago, I am leery of tackling the repair myself. If it was any other wheel I would. My appointment is Thursday the 24th and I will speak to the service manager to make sure they use good troubleshooting skills and only replace the actual component that has failed if that is the case.
My wife currently drives a 2017 Toyota Rav-4 that has so much crap on it I kinda hate driving it. I turn off all the ridiculous nannies every time I start it, and override the radar controlled cruise control to operate in standard speed mode*. She needed a windshield replacement a couple of years ago. All the windshield companies say they'll do on site replacement. Not for these newer vehicles they don't. They have to go indoors at the glass shop because all the windshield mounted sensors have to be re-calibrated.
My Tundra has had a couple of my special "modifications"; I long ago eliminated the TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System), and a couple of years ago, also eliminated the air injection system for cold startups. That pumps air into the exhaust to burn off excess fuel in the first 30 seconds of a cold start. After that it is never used again, or used on hot re-starts. My system failed numerous times with individual component replacement, and according to Toyota the only real fix is complete system replacement at the tune of $4000-$5000. Instead, I bought a $395 off road AIP elimination kit from Hewitt Technologies and problem permanently solved. I pass state emission inspections with flying colors every 2 years and they have no clue I have that unit installed.
I have already planned out my Tundra replacement. I hope to get a few more years out of it. After that, I head down south to find and buy Grandpa's low mileage old school pickup truck. Cheap to insure, cheap property taxes, easy to repair, and NO STATE EMISSION INSPECTIONS!! I will drive it into the ground and have it rust out from under me and then go get another.
*On Toyota's, if you press and hold the Cruise Control power button for 3 seconds, it shuts off the radar and goes into standard cruise control mode. You will need to do this EVERY time you power cruise control on.